QThis is the definitive guide to consult every time you want to try a new combination, so you don’t mess up.
Not all of us are looking for a minimal three-step skincare routine. Many of us love to pamper ourselves with double cleansing, essences, serums and creams, which we may alternate and mix differently depending on the morning or evening application. But the more products we use, the bigger it is active skin care ingredients that we mixlayer by layer on our skin, and the greater the chances of wreaking havoc.
There is no right or wrong approach to skin care: we are all free to choose how much and what products to put on our face, also taking into account the needs of each individual’s skin.
But if with minimalism it is more difficult to make mistakes, when we get too creative and turn into little chemists, then some problems could arise, probably in the form of breakouts and skin irritations. The same can happen with sudden product changes, going from something our skin is used to to new formulas that we don’t know how they will react to, so it’s always betterinsert or replace only one product at a time.
Let’s make a hypothesis. We hear it often alpha and beta hydroxy acids should not be mixed, or at any rate irritant active ingredients, even if we afterwards find them combined in some serums. But then what is the truth? Simple. If a formula is specifically sold as a serum, it means that the concentrations of active ingredients within it have been tested and are safe for the skin. It’s different when it’s us them mix formulas with active ingredients without knowing the percentages entered, for example when we use dei amplifierswhich are often individual components.
“Except in the case of sensitive skin, a lot often there are no real mixing problems in the same routine or throughout the day – so morning and night – different active ingredients”, explains cosmetologist Marilisa Franchini @beautycologa, “but for safety reasons we prefer to suggest using them alternately”.
Retinol and peeling acids to use together
“When using complex and high-performance active ingredients that could cause irritation – such as e.g retinol and peeling acids – the main indication is not to use them together. Especially if it’s a new routine and the skin isn’t used to it, it’s easy for problems to arise,” says the expert. “The ideal is to choose which active ingredient to start with and, after using it for at least four weeks, if the skin has not presented any problems, only then can a new complex active ingredient be introduced, but on different days and again, after check how the skin behaves, they can be used earlier in the day, in the two different routines and only at the end, if absolutely necessary, try layering.”
when blend highly active skin care ingredients Therefore, it is important to see the reaction of the skin, which, we would like to repeat, is not the same for everyone.
Niacinamide: what not to mix it with
“Mix niacinamide and vitamin C it doesn’t cause any problem. “Old research from the 1960s highlighted production-related problems, but they have now been overcome and are often also found combined in certain serums,” explains Franchini. “The doubt arises from the fact that niacinamide at low pH turns into nicotinic acid and can cause irritation, but even if I apply a serum with ascorbic acid I have no problem, because the skin acts as a buffer. In this case, it is important to remember that, between the application of one product and another, you must wait for the previous one to be well absorbed before proceeding to the new layer. Vitamin C is applied first, then niacinamide.”
“There niacinamide It suits all skin types and the ideal concentration is up to 5%, also because higher percentages do not increase effectiveness. The only problem is when I mix it with active low ph like l‘salicylic acid, but if we pay attention and wait for each layer to be well absorbed, the problem does not exist. A golden rule to always keep in mind is this Cosmetics are never mixed together on the hand and then apply: you have to apply one layer at a time and wait for it to dry.”
Skin care acids: what not to mix
“If we find different acids in the formulas there are no problems, because the ingredients are used synergistically, but it is not necessary never mix acids from different formulas and serums“, warns the cosmetologist. “Another mistake that is made is to assume that if you have oily skin, your entire routine should be based on salicylic acid products. No. You must select a productdepending on which step you prefer to use it.”
“Polyhydroxy acids, such as e.g gluconolactone or the lactobionicthey are acids, but do not have an exfoliating effect, but have a protective function skin barriertherefore using them in the same routine as alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids can counteract the negative effects of peeling.”
“There is a specific peptide, the copper peptide, which should not be used with vitamin C, otherwise it oxidizes and neutralizes its effect. The copper peptide It has been recognized since the 1970s as a powerful antiaging agent.”
Retinol and peptides
Peptides are a key ingredient in skin care because they slow skin aging and make skin stronger and more resilient. They are a winning pair when it comes to anti-aging routines, because they work in synergy and therefore yes, they can be used together without problems.
Mix hyaluronic acid and vitamin C
“Hyaluronic acid is acidic and moisturizing, but not exfoliating,” so it doesn’t cause any problems. A tip when using vitamin C is to always apply it to freshly cleansed skin first, followed by hyaluronic acid.
Mix retinol and vitamin C
“When it comes to mix retinol and vitamin C or ascorbic acid, the problem is that there are skins that may be sensitive to one of the two ingredients. In theory they could be used together in layering, but it’s always better to use them two separate routines – vitamin C during the day and retinol at night – to avoid accidents,” suggests Franchini.